There’s a film shoot this weekend. Normally I’d be on my way out East with my pal Sue riding shotgun, both of us chattering all the way through Ohio and on the rim of Pennsylvania about our lives and loves and the work ahead. But Sue’s on the road without me today– not just because of all the stuff that’s happened to me lately, but because there is a family wedding on Saturday. Sue’s calling me every few hours with updates of her travel… She misses me and I miss her. We are very good travel companions. Anyway… it has me pining for “All Things East” and that’s why you’re getting another list.
10. Rita’s Custard stand in Gettysburg or the funny little Frozen Custard stand on the divided highway outside of Winchester, VA (sorry… those directions make sense to me…) Deeelishous. I love frozen custard very much. As much as some extended family members. Add in some colorful sprinkles and I’m in a state of bliss.
9. The lovely green field in Manassas, VA. Sue and I went there once on my birthday and toured the battlefield. It’s the greenest area I’ve ever seen outside of the Isle of Man. There’s a photo from that day in my office. It’s just crazy, crazy green.
8. Alexandria, VA One of our trips East is now legendary in it’s unbelievable string of opportunities. While strolling through Alexandria (stalking the traceable paths of my dear W. H. Withington) we got a cellphone call from Juanita Leisch (that name means everything if you are into civil war era clothing) who directed us to an estate sale in Arlington that resulted in a wealth of finds including an 1850s waistcoat and 1830s gown.
7. The Piper Swale on the Antietam National Battlefield. (It’s nearer and dearer to me than it is to Sue but she understands my attachment to it so I’m including it on a Sue & Terri list.) Reached by walking up a red clay, root plaited little lane, lined with trees and cow droppings, the reward is at the summit where a deep valley cuts through in an unexpectedly open way. At the bottom, in the swale, there is a copse of trees that provides rare shade and huge boulders a place to rest against or sit up on with your legs swinging. The picture in my office, on the top of my computer monitor, does not do it justice. It’s a flat little image without the hidden little dips and turns, but it’s a lovely place. Once I hiked up there for a sunrise by myself, hopping the cattle fencing and covering my boots with thick dew. Settled against a cold little rock in the dark I watched a panoramic view of the dawn. It’s where I go when the dentist drill is biting or the meeting is acidic with office politics or lately in general.
6. Battleview Market in Sharpsburg, MD. Sue erronously calls it “Battleside” which has become it’s second name. It’s one of our favorite breakfast stops. (Our long standing order used to be “frenchtoastwithcrispybaconkeeptheextrasyrupandbutterlargecoffeewithridiculousamountsofcream, westernomeletwithasugarycoffeeandagrapefruityjuiceblend, and chippedbeefontoastorbiscuitswithaYoohooand7up, please”) All heaven opened up to us the day we discovered that they also make the world’s greatest fried chicken. We’ve gone hours out of our way for this place.
5. Burnside’s Bridge, Antietam National Battlefield. One of our most favorite places to eat breakfast in the world. I’ve had the good fortune not only to walk across the bridge but to wade underneath it, too (and that at a time when I was still blissfully unaware of the local snake population…) We’ve filmed it from nearly every angle and enjoyed it in the still, quiet yellow mornings of Maryland when the cicadas have started their noisy humming by 7 a.m. We sit here and munch our breakfasts out of their styrofoam boxes and listen to the running commentaries of dear friends’ history lessons. Also dear is The Clara Barton Monument . It’s a typical monolithic memorial with the sweetest addition of bricks from her childhood home creating a red cross on it. We’ve picknicked there and used it as a beacon on late night walks. Our other picknicking place is the observation tower on the battlefield.
4. Little Round Top overlooking Devil’s Den on the Gettysburg National Battlefield. We’ve seen many sunsets from this point… all under the squirrely feeling that the NPS guys will chase us out at dusk… But one year, on the eve of my birthday, we sat on the flat boulders and watched a glorious sunset. It was a fun trip, that weekend, filled with our usual antics and fun, but that night we were quiet and grateful to see such a beautiful sight.
3. “Shepherdstown Chinese” (The China Kitchen, Shepherdstown, West VA) Hands down the best darn Mongolian Beef in the continental US. Piling in at the end of a day, we are dirty and dusty and tired and slaphappy… Sometimes the group is small and numbers 3 seats, at other times we’ve darn near taken over the place… but the rules are the same– everybody orders something different and everybody passes their dish. For me it’s agony of hoping that I can order first and get my favorite dish. They’re also very generous with their “nuclear pink sauce” and crunchy fried noodles… The sweetest thing about SC is that Sue hates Chinese food. Most people would never know her own private horror when we wonder “can we fit in SC three times on this shoot?” I understand that she’s sacrificing for the good and wellbeing of the rest of us. (And, over time, she’s discovered a few dishes that she can pick at unobtrusively.) Once we ended up with two plates of Mongolian Beef and ended up with a tiny carton of left overs… we snuck down to the farm grill late at night and heated it up using our Leatherman tools as cooking utensils and licking our sticky fingers in the black night. I’ve always hated chinese food leftovers… but that night ranks among the best things I’ve ever had.
2. The Lincoln and Avenue Diners in Gettysburg, PA. Sue will attest to the crispy bacon that both places serve. But for me it is the cherry malts and feta-cheese omelets of the former and the corned beef hash of the latter that have won me over. (That and the happy memories of my Eastern pals crowding into the long booths or rearranging tables to fit our ever growing group.)
1.Middlekauf Farm, Sharpsburg, MD. Not on the public map (unless you can get your hands on one of Hotchkiss’) but on the main pike and marked with a white mailbox. We’ve stayed here for the bulk of our film shoots– in an 18th century building constantly under promise of future restoration… no doors, no walls, no electricity or water… but one of the dearest places in the world. The farm encompasses a mass of rock jutted hills and a steep climb to a series of fields and pastures that sneak up to the Poffenberger fields. Nearly every inch of the place is familiar to us. We’ve cried and laughed here more than any other place on earth… and no bed has been as welcoming as our little army cots at the end of a long, shadeless Maryland day.