One of my coworker pal’s sister is visiting from New York. I met her and her husband today and chatted with them about our recent visit to New York City. They live “outside of the city” but have worked and played there. I related our itenerary to them, including our notes for a Future Visit With Only Grown-Ups and exchanged agreements that Central Park is a wonderful place.
And then the Former World Trade Center Site came up.
The husband of coworker’s sister works quite near there and he wondered if we had ventured far enough downtown to see the area. I explained that we had– and that it had been one of the places we’d hoped to see on our too brief visit. Like my coworker, the sister was blunt and came right to the point asking me what was it that had drawn us there… It’s hard now to convey her tone but there was, somewhere in the polite inquisition, the question of what had we come to see? And why.
In hindsight, it was one of the most memorable of our NYC moments. I hope that I will not forget the glee Jack found in running in Central Park’s green, green grass (especially that particular patch that was forbidden) or his surprise in the cold spray of the little children’s fountain and knowing me I’ll tuck carefully away the exact taste of the most wonderful street vendor hotdog… But there was a perfect storm of traveling luck when we viewed the WTC site. It was late at night– we walked from the water and the Staten Island Ferry dock uptown toward it along the ticker-tape-parade route reading the brass plaques set into the pavement along the way. The sky opened up– and really, even from our midwestern “Gosh! This sure is a big city” perspective there was suddenly too much sky all at once. All around there had been this crush of skyscraping buildings so the sudden void was immediate and profound. The site itself is sanitized now, of course, and is surrounded by a chain link fence. But it’s there just the same. An enormous hole that goes down deep into the ground where– at the late hour we visited– construction vehicles sat ready for the next day’s work. Maybe a dozen or so other people were there at the same time– everyone hushed and polite. Jack was asleep in his stroller with Robby pushing somewhere behind me while we read the signs at our own pace. There’s a timeline of the day. And photographs of rescue workers with bloodied office people. They’re captioned photographs and from them we knew that most of the firemen and rescue people pictured were killed in the collapse of the towers when they returned to help more people.
It’s a big, big void that takes up a lot of space. Too big, really, to wrap your brain around. And it’s so familiar after all the news coverage and printed photos– the little park with the statue of the businessman is almost strange to see with green grass and none of the debris.
Our timing was perfect. We’d rearranged our morning itenerary completely– without meaning to– because we’d intended to visit in the early afternoon. This was so much better. It was better for it to be quiet and still and sparsely populated. There’s nothing wrong with tour buses or groups– they’re the same as we except that there’s more of them– but it’s like visiting a great cathedral when there is someone there praying– it feels intrusive and inappropriate. And I think it must be a different place during the day when the buildings around the perimeter are busy and full with streets full of traffic and those construction vehicles constructing.
Coworker’s sister waited for my answer. Coworker’s sister’s husband said, “Honey– it’s a pilgrimage.” And it is maybe. More so– and this is what I tried to explain– it’s our’s too. I watched the Today show that morning when everything changed. On September 11 and September 12 and September 13 we didn’t know what it meant. Were we or some closer landmark next? Would the Empire State Building fall? Would the Statue of Liberty sink into the harbor? Would it be familiar Chicago? or the Golden Gate Bridge?
I did not grieve the loss of any friends or family or home — and I think that’s mostly where coworker’s sister was coming from. And I think I was gentle when I explained that just as I cannot imagine what it must have been like that week to realize a friend and then another and another was dead– she can’t imagine what it was like to be in the rest of the country watching and waiting and grieving too. Our workplace, at the time, was pretty fractured and yet that Tuesday we piled around a small television with rabbit ears and cried together.
“But why go there now? There’s nothing there,” she prodded.
Maybe it’s the Museum in me but it was important for me — and Robby– to see it before it is the next thing. Before the monuments go up or the buildings are erected. While it is still just a huge mark of what was there once.
She looked at me like I was crazy.
Jack’s too little, of course, for all of it. And it’s too soon to tell what he’ll know about that day or our visit because too much can happen in the time between him being old enough to understand and now. I hope that it is as ancient sounding as Pearl Harbor or the Kennedy Assassination was to us when we were growing up.
Maybe by then I’ll have a better explanation.